Cantina del Morellino is our favorite Tuscan cooperative. It is a family-owned, interconnected network of exceedingly small growers, virtually all of them multigenerational and married to the land. Chief enologist Paolo Caciorgna is a master of his craft, and one of the true experts in native Tuscan varietals. Here, his Sangiovese and Alicante blend provides a pleasing melange of tart, dried cherry and liquid smoke, along with a faint chalkiness and a finish that is pleasingly dry and briny.